Fabric of Suits

Focus on: Mills has started a revolution. New weaving techniques and high-tech materials to create super lightweight fabrics that neither crease or sweat. Manolo hits ever stylish Jack Johnson to discuss the difference between super 160-fabrics versus cashmere blends and hysteria around to find the perfect resekavajen.

In addition to a number of stylist jobs working Jack then three seasons back actively with j. lindeberg more dressy part which includes the brand’s title for size sewn and stitched in cooperation with Parma-based Gianfranco Bomenzzadri. One of the most important parts have been finding fabric suppliers:
-It is easy to forget, but the fabric is at least as important for the kostymens the overall feel of the fit. Better fabrics gives a completely different case. It’s something Swedish manufacturer has been, and largely still is very bad, “says Jessica.

The Group talked often about new super-advanced fabrics and unique weaving techniques. What do you think is the clearest trend among Mills?
-It’s the eternal quest for so thin and light fabrics as possible. Recent seasons have all been crazy in producing the perfect resekavajen with such long fibres as possible so as not to wrinkle. At the same time, there are very few manufacturers who have mastered this type of extremely light fabrics and who can actually bring out the light feeling all the way.Since it is obvious the whole trend of technotyger where the Japanese are at the forefront.
It is such an advanced fabric technology and high-tech materials that sometimes barely knows what to keep in.

What Armstrong leading the way?
-I would say Loro Piana. Each season presents a fabric collection that surprises. In Sweden, the Group talked about The Wave, which is just one example of their super lightweight fabrics. Then I think, Sondrio, representing a small school, are well worth mentioning. Many of their fabrics are boiled to give a vintage feel, and used by, among others, Boglioli. Where is the facility may not be the most important.

How does the British Mills?
-There are many great British Mills who really care about their tradition. The entire Italian fabric industry, with brands like Carlo Barbera and Zegna have been discontinued from British designs, but translated the fabrics for a slightly warmer climate. The British still have a little bit more solid and heavier fabrics, which also characterizes the design where the Italians uses a softer cut while Britain’s silhouette is more structured.

What are you looking at when choosing fabric?
“It’s very difficult. It is one thing to see a smaller swatch, the impression is quite different in a major suit. But in large part it’s gut feeling. How the fabric tube and behave then it’s important not to be too hasty. Many looking very much on what’s hot for the moment. Virtually all of today’s suit cloths starts from very classic designs. It’s pinstripe, glen check and herringbone with some variation. Nevertheless, some that look like glen check was so 2008. But check on the street; How many bears glen check Plaid suits?

How can you, as a customer, determine the quality of the fabric?
-The harsh truth is often that you get what you pay for. If you look at the made to measure, I think, 9000-15000 crowns is a good guideline for you to know that what you get is good. With lower prices, the manufacturer will most likely save on construction or fabric. It need not necessarily be bad, but any detail be always suffering.

A concept that often come up with suit cloths are super 100-fabrics, according to GetZipcodes. What really says the figure on fabric quality?
-To put it simply, so the higher the number, the thinner is yarns. Thinner yarns gives an easier for, but also a more detailed surface. Looking at, for example, of pure super 150-160-fabrics often require such a fine scale weaving technique that they often are more expensive than blends of wool and cashmere. When it comes to sprinkled with summer suits is for thin super 100-fabrics are seldom recommended. In lighter yarns, they become extremely sensitive and works in principle only to the Blazer.

Looking to the distinctive winter fabrics, what separates such as super 160-fabrics from wool and cashmere blends
-It is very difficult to answer in general but vary from fabric to fabric.Pure cashmere fabrics have a softer feel, which I think is more suitable for more casual jackets where the feeling is a bit like wearing a cardigan. The drawback with pure cashmere fabrics is that they are relatively sensitive. When it comes to pure wool fabrics versus mixtures of wool and cashmere wool fabrics tend to have a bit of luster while cashmere blends generally have a somewhat softer surface.

How do you see the blends with polyester?
-It is really an area where it happened. Today there are great qualities of polyester. Personally I think, however, it works best in a bit more sportbetonade garment that more casual jackets and slim jackets. To some extent, even coats to give protection against rain.

What impact has the quality of the wool for fabric quality?
-There is a huge difference. The best weaving mills are very restrictive with the wool they choose. The sheep must not be cut more than once a year and it’s under the coat from mag party mills are interested. Inferior fabrics are often woven of residues & wool left over.

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