Object of fascination since its evolution in its modern form in the early 1930s, smoking has always been considered the holding quintessential masculine elegance when it comes to dress for a special occasion. Therefore, while we thought reserved for a certain elite population due to its rarity or its cost, several factors contributed to significantly decomplex men on wearing this piece. The first is obviously the evolution of customs and clothing styles in regard to formal settings with a trend towards casual. Then fast fashion consumption “fast fashion” putting to reach this type of part to much lower prices than before. Anyway, many persist rules regarding the wearing tuxedo. We’ll detail them here.
By way of preface, I propose to review some fundamental on the tuxedo. We will not discuss here its history since this is detailed in an article by whole. Still remember that it was created in England in the 1850s and was wearing when men retired to the smoking room after dinner to cover their clothes so they do not feel tobacco. Over the years, it was modified to finally wear during dinner and for special occasions exclusively nocturnal. If we can distinguish the smoking jacket ( tuxedo jacket in English) of one worn out, we will deal only with the latter since it has taken precedence in our time. So, let’s dissect all elements of the tuxedo outfit from head to toe.
This is definitely the most important element of the outfit, the one on which everything rests. In fact, originally it is designated by the tuxedo jacket, and over time has been called by this term all the accoutrement. New reminder, we must its modern version the future King Edward VII of England who asked his staff tailor a derived version of the original that he could wear at the dinner. Once exported to the United States in the early 1900s, this jacket would have taken the name of tuxedo and be distinguished even more basic version. Today, the tuxedo jacket remains under a certain framework, and can be found for almost all models of the recurring features.
The collar tuxedo is in essence a shawl collar, only over time the pointed collar appeared from the United States. These are the two main forms accepted and acceptable, the generic notched collar not bringing the exceptional character required for wearing this jacket. That said, there are some models with this type of collar on the market but you advises against. In general, the reverse of a tuxedo jacket is always made of silk or satin (originally, it meant that the ash slide without damaging the material). Its thickness is variable and you can imagine, the 2010s have tended to shorten it to refine the silhouette. There is no general rule as to the choice of the type of your lapel and we tend to advise you to run to the affect. Nevertheless, one might reasonably likely meet strong physiques due to its vertical shape, while the sharp setback enhance the visual width of the shoulders of those who have a thin body.
The lapel of a suit jacket can be single or crossed with all types of collars. Note that in all cases, the buttons are not just pearl as a generic suit jacket but lined with the same material used to dress the neck. On models with single buttonhole, one must find one button (all other potential are superfluous!) And on cross-jackets, the number varies from 2 to 6.
The cut of a tuxedo jacket to be bent. As such, it has no bottom to ease slot back even if we sometimes find models that are equipped with two for comfort. Ideally, a jacket should reach the highest peak of the buttocks (the widest part).
As said above, the buttons must be covered with the same fabric used for the back or optionally black. On the sleeves, they possess the same number as on a normal suit jacket, namely 4.
If the tuxedo jacket is the centerpiece of this set whose port is the “regulated”, the shirt is not to rest. You had to expect, we do not put a vulgar shirt with a tuxedo. Again, it is subject to numerous codes that must be followed. Not only to honor the tradition, but also to keep a certain harmony in your outfit. Actually, it will always be white and almost choose the same way as a normal shirt. But some features differ:
The collar of the shirt worn with a tuxedo is debated almost since the inception of the latter. Here we have two options: broken neck or down collar. Formerly, it was the collared shirt off his formal attire of the day with a tailcoat jacket, then put his tuxedo jacket over once in the evening. Thus, this type of practice remained in the collective imagination as that of reference in the field. In current practice, many complain that the loan to wear shirt collars are too short, not quite rigid and not removable. Anyway, if you feel your outfit too overloaded, you can opt for a classic collar. It is a now much easier option to take and very valid. Just make sure it is not too little. For example, Italian or semi-spread collar will be an excellent choice with a tuxedo. Forget by against the buttoned collar usually reserved for relaxation shirts.
In the rules of art, dress shirt has a plastron, this rectangular pan fabric extending almost across the front. One can find the pleated, with a fabric forming vertical lines, or quilted, made in a different material as used for the rest of the jacket, generally cotton pique. If these two are the main choice when you want to stick to the atmosphere, some progressive only insist to wear a shirt with beautiful fabric, regardless of whether it has a plastron.
The wrists should be musketeers and adorned with cufflinks. On this point, everyone is unanimous. Moreover, as when wearing a normal suit, the sleeves of the shirt must exceed half a centimeter from those of the jacket
On some dress shirts, we find no buttons. They are replaced by holes to put removable buttons which generally must be associated with those wrists. Today, this practice seems lost the greatest number but can exist in some very sharp people.
Just like all other parts of the evening dress, pants no exception to the rule and is seen again served with suitable characteristics. After what you just read, will not make me believe you were expecting a generic suit pants. Several key questions are raised in the case of the pants. The two most important are that color, then how you will maintain it.
Because no, the waist of the pants has no way, as such, it must be chosen in your exact size. However, it may include clamping lugs on the sides or buttons to accommodate a pair of suspenders.
Regarding color, it can be mismatched but the pants must be in harmony with your jacket. This means that it must be made of the same material (besides the case of velvet jackets). In almost all cases it will be black.
Its cut is straight and adjusted the tuxedo is a sensible piece refine the silhouette. To optimize maintenance (you guessed, this is a key point), we choose the high waist, which will also allow the wearing of accessories indispensable to the size of an easier way (see below).
The long seams leg are usually hidden by a strip of fabric made of the same material as the jacket lapel. The vertical pockets are thus placed on the outer end of this strip.
Finally, the pants may have a crease or not, that’s your preference.
Vest, Suspenders and cummerbung
The transition is all done, we do not wear leather belt with a tuxedo. If you did, even the purists would cry foul, as thin your hypothetical belt would she. Anyway this part is closely linked to wearing the vest and that of cummerbung.
The cummerbund is the preferred option amateurs. This is a horizontally pleated fabric band that is placed around his waist. Traditionally, it is made of the same material as the jacket lapel. The pleats facing up had historically as function of serving as makeshift pockets, pants not being equipped at the time. Its function is not to do as belt, but a smooth transition between the size of pants and shirt. It thus hides unsightly folds of the shirt tucked in and elongates the silhouette. Many are asking the question of wearing braces with the cummerbund. Everybody agrees in this case, it is not correct to do so because it too overloaded holding and overnight harmony. Outdated for some, indispensable for others, it is also a way to add a splash of color to her outfit, usually the same as the bow tie. It’s not something I would recommend. Be satisfied with a good sober black model.
The vest is the number one option when his pants are too loose and you want wear suspenders (or just by preference). It is above all the traditional pomp of holding tuxedo and it differs from that door in a three piece suit. The main point is to cut low and wide, allowing not hide the butt of the shirt. By cons, it must be long enough to hide the waistband, and can cover the straps when door. Generally, the vest has a shawl collar and be seen carved in the same material as the jacket (you can even find a point with the setback in places).
If traditionally, its color was white, prefer to marry today the color of the jacket if one does not want to risk the time it is made of wool (except for tuxedo jackets for reasons which will be chosen the dark, in the same fabric as the setbacks and for those velvet why I would advise tendency to not put at all).
It can be found in versions crossed or not. A priori, we will not put in a cross tuxedo jacket because it is the door closed and conceal all. By cons, it will suit to all other types of jackets and collars.
The straps are usually choose black or white. Even if one does not see them, do all the same to opt for a too unsightly fabric (it’s all in the head). For cons, the only rule in this matter is especially not dare to closing a metal model … these damage your beautiful pants!
If shoes are not as prickly than it appears on the tuxedo. As it is customary for this type of outfit, she must sublimate all in harmony. It does not earn any pair as it must have sufficient minimalist attributes. Ie a sole too thick or too pronounced details (like a flower end) will be inadequate. Nevertheless, keep in mind that if you want to do things well, it is rarely in a reusable pair to be invested. Indeed, for informal events requiring the wearing of the tuxedo, the varnished black shoe is a top choice for purists. And so over time some differences are tolerated, there is agreement not limit the choice to very few feet.
The Bow Tie
The holding is almost complete, then remains only to add the finishing touches. Neck, you will not be spoiled for choice, the tie being for too formal wear, and ascots reserved for daytime and formal ceremonies. Thus, it is a bow tie to which we must turn around and of course, is you yourself who nouerez it!
Regarding the form, there are various course you choose according to your personal taste, but also by the size of your face and the neck of your shirt. The right proportion is not necessarily dictated by a universal rule, but some agree that a node whose ends are aligned with those outside of your eyes will be suitable. In the same vein, if your neck is flared, be sure to choose a thicker node and vice versa. Also, be aware that the association with a broken neck is possible (although dicey). The only rule in this area remains to ensure that cervical sections are long enough to stay wedged under the node.
Data is recurrence since the beginning of this article, that combine many features of its holding to those of his lapel. This is still the case. If satin, then opt for a silk pattern. For a coarser material, we can then go to the corduroy. One thing remains to be determined: the color. If one sees on the internet many images of men try all the colors of the rainbow to their bow, you say they are wrong. Again, attention should not be drawn to a specific point of your outfit but on a whole. Thus, we will choose the black knot, even in very dark colors.
From this point, holding seems in itself already very accessorized. However, it may still be more complete with some course optional accessories. If no one ever tell you anything seeing your empty breast pocket, adding a pocket will obviously be a plus. Traditionally, one chooses white silk and fold type does not matter.
You are a fan of large watches diving 58mm diameter? You may need to resolve to leave your favorite jewel in your bedside table because it could come to ruin all your efforts. Again, the range of options are not wide and is satisfied with a fine and sober city model to let any light on her nice cufflinks.
When Will You Wear Tuxedos?
The tuxedo is a holding whose use is exclusively nocture. It is informal and does not therefore for occasions by definition. If you think you are the most beautiful at the wedding of your cousin wearing a tuxedo, he missed! Historically therefore, we reserve the dinners casino and cocktail dinners or galas, all other opportunities are therefore superfluous. Also, it’s conventional to do the door after sunset.
We have come to the party angry, that of style. Often this category contrasts two currents: the traditionalist followers of the tuxedo worn by the rules of art and progressive, willing to develop this type of outfit by adding their personal touch. The debate rages especially in accessories.
The first find that “the attractiveness of this uniform is its uniformity” and that the tuxedo customization attempts are often perilous. It is often also not far from the distasteful and self-centeredness of this decision is sometimes considered disrespectful by the other male guests to deprive them of this uniformity
On the other side, we have those who wish not to stick to the dress code, or only in part. In this case, several possible variations start to be tolerated. The use of colors or patterns for the cover, the cummerbund and bow tie (stay still in the shadows), change the shirt to a turtleneck for a romantic look even wearing sneakers that are sees some fashion campaigns.
In conclusion, we tend to advise you to please you master the basics. The tuxedo is not an outfit that often door, so as to honor him when this is the case and avoid going to a clown. Because that is the main risk with such an outfit, although it is powerful enough, we can not help but want to do too much, risking the impossible for a result not very glorious. Remember that this outfit calls for a maximum of sobriety to give vent to the colors worn by the women. Also, we tend to tell you to invest in a good tuxedo instead of rent, but we remain aware of the few opportunities you have to wear it. Whatever you decide, keep in mind this guide to bring the best informal attire most elegant kind;)
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