Why choose Emanuel Lang for this shirt?
We have entrusted the manufacture of these fabrics to Emanuel Lang which is a Weaver Alsatian for more than 160 years, specialized in the manufacture of oxford original and inventive.
And he’s the last french textile industrial loom shirts materials, according to elaineqho.
You will see that this workshop has a particularly eventful history. Next, one Apple looks like a walk in the Park.
At the heart of a historic pool of french textile
It’s in 1856 that Emanuel Lang founded a weaving workshop in the South of Alsace. This isn’t a detail since this region is a historical French textile industry basin, which Mulhouse is the center of gravity.
Indeed, Alsace has always been the crossroads of many cultures (Celtic, Roman, barbarians…), and an area rich in water, mining, agricultural and technical resources.
Mulhouse was a very prosperous city, and was still in 1798, end the Republic of Mulhouse, and year of attachment to the France.
During its history, the city received the brunt of his situation of independent city (since 1275), whether during the industrial revolution (hydro and wind energy: the emblem of the city is also a mill wheel water) or the great industrial revolution (known as the “French Manchester” Mulhouse, or “the city at 100 chimneys”).
These revolutions begat others: new modes of academic, social capitalism, chemistry, and many inventions around the mechanics. Muhlouse is the birthplace of Schlumberger (looms and machinery tools), Tiscali, and even the American manufacturer Boeing, which was inspired by Aviatik, Builder of Mulhouse aeroplanes.
So if you go to Mulhouse, don’t miss its technical museums: it is the European city which has the most (and the 2nd French city for national museums): from the train, electricity, printing on fabric, of firefighters, or automotive museums, are the inevitable.
Life, death and resurrection of Emanuel Lang
The textile know-how has been passed down over generations, and are very proud of the Alsatians (ask Geoffrey!). To give you an idea, this is the same report that there is between the Scots and the Whiskey, or the Basques with the basque cake and Bayonne ham.
Emanuel Lang yet almost never blow his 160th candle. Through this SME, it’s part of the history of French industry that talks about itself.
We are at the beginning of the 2000s, the French textile industry is dying, in part because of cheap competition Asian, capable of making a fabric of equivalent quality to much, much cheaper.
Unable to align, the French textile industry declined and are forced to change their business model to escape completely to the disappearance.
As in all Alsace, the waves of layoffs occur. Almost all the close Group sites in 2003, with the exception of one, who momentarily keeps its activity.
In 2009, creation and weaving workshops are under a liquidation plan, and new layoffs are necessary to avoid permanently close the company.
And that’s the drama. We learn in the Alsatian press that, again, the group will enter intojudicial liquidation, weakened by rising price of cotton. The machines must be sold at auction and the final closure of the site is no more doubt.
Many repurchase plans are discussed before failing, one after the other. The closure is imminent and the vultures flying above the site. For ten months, the only activity of the employees will be to protest the sale of machines.
And then end of 2013, the company found a new owner. An agreement that no one dared hope is reached, society then leaves very little to the bankruptcy and found a few customers.
Today, the historical company is an SME to 20 people. Rather than run out to provide a Poplin that is never cheaper than its low-costcompetitors, she leads a true reflection of background on what she can do differently: “what can we be the only ones to provide? What we can do that no one else knows do?”
And so she will develop a real creativity in the tissues it is so-called “weight shirts” : instead of providing a Poplin view and review on which it is very complicated to offer real added value, Emanuel Lang goes further in the construction of its collections.
To be honest, it was a very beautiful discovery because I thought only the Japanese were capable of such creativity! Their fabrics are very textured, rough, or with quite impressive woven patterns.
Efforts will pay, as it will start to provide several well known brands in the ready-to-wear.
And for the record, Geoffrey grew up in 15km from Hirsingue, stronghold of Emanuel Lang. This collaboration has a symbolic value for us.
Why this collaboration?
As has been said, Emanuel Lang showed great creativity in the creation of fabrics in oxford.
By working with them, so we have the knowledge to be of a very old player in the french textile.
Moreover, Emanuel Lang is part of the business combination “Alsace textile land”, which brings together companies that are illustrated by a specific know-how, following a tradition and who have their production tool in the region.
It’s a kind “of industrial appellation Contrôlée” that ensures the customer to purchase a “local” product which has been designed in compliance with the environmental, social and environmental standards (to be noted that there are also some other grouping of type “Vosges textile land”).
In addition, our oxford is certified OEKO-Tex Standard 100, which guarantees the absence of any harmful in their tissues.
The Alsatian textile know-how
The creativity of Emanuel Lang comes from daily tests on mixtures of son, or the new “armor” by combining very specific warp and weft.
This knowledge is very valuable and allow to create unlimited new materials.
Emanuel Lang also has unique machine (Yes, you read that right, some machines of its production are found nowhere else). These same machines that had almost fell into the hands of buyers…
But the know-how of Emanuel Lang is involved in all stages of the manufacturing process: the creation of collections, the techniques of weaving and finishing.
You should know that the oxford cloth is woven in a very particular way: blue two vertical wires (called warp threads) are crossed with a white horizontal wire (called the weft wire).Called cela a semi-natte weaving. Don’t worry, everything is explained in the video!
Christian Didier, current CEO of Emanuel Lang, wanted to preserve the secrets of his oxford.But in the face of our insistence, he even kindly tell us more!
One of the most important elements is the selection of quality yarns : the son come from Spain, Switzerland, Italy and even in the North of the France. Christian travels many son shows (including the renowned salon Filo in Milan) to source the best.
On an oxford, the decisive factor is the quality of the weft wire (white, which is a twined thread on our oxford) and the way in which it is crisscrossed with the warp threads.
In addition to the son, this is the technique of weaving (thanks to the unique machine) which allows to give Oxford a gentle hand and a particular Visual rendering. But right now, it’s the magical recipe that Christian would not reveal the secrets. He just merely to refer in his video interview. It is the cult of secrecy version Emanuel Lang.
It said the material that comes to be woven she “fell of trade” (in other words, gross). He must then take him to the converter for the last step, the ennoblissage (or finishing). This will allow to fix the matter and give him his final hand. And it is during this stage that removing all the impurities and residual waste in cotton.
Emanuel Lang works with a converter in the region called ETC (finishing Technique of Cernay), based at Cernay so – 30 minutes drive of Hirsingue. Can’t do more local!
Luxury, calm and voluptuousness
For this shirt, Emanuel Lang uses a particularly thick weft wire, which gives it a regular texture.
The final result is too smooth or too rough. To the touch, the material is softer than a classic Poplin. The hand is soft with however the terrain, between the “grain” that is characteristic of Japanese fabrics and sobriety to the French.
We wanted to get away from the American preppy universe (further cuts, the fold of ease in the back, us not too). That’s why we chose our usual hidden button down collar. Yes, it’s the same as our two chambray shirts! It’s a collar which will remain in place no matter what happens, with the air of a classic french collar-no need to leave Yale to wear our shirt.
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